01 / ABOUT THE PLACE
About this place
One of Taruhachi’s attractions is the range on offer, from seasonal sashimi and fried dishes to noodles at the end of the meal. At this izakaya in Tanakamonzencho, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto, you might start with the seasonal sashimi assortment and leave the day’s selection of seafood to the kitchen. One diner’s assortment included bluefin tuna, bigfin reef squid, white tilefish, giant octopus and pike conger, as well as ryūhi-maki flounder, a Kyoto-style rolled preparation. The same meal included white shrimp tempura and rock oysters with ponzu, showing seafood in fried and shellfish dishes as well as sashimi.
The fish selection also changes from day to day. Seasonal simmered fish may include kinmedai, blackthroat seaperch, sea bream or yellowtail, while grilled collars vary between fish such as sea bream, striped jack and greater amberjack. The menu says the silver cod for its saikyo-yaki is marinated in white miso for a week to draw out excess moisture and keep the fish tender. A diner also praised the flavour of the miso marinade and the softness of the fish.
Alongside the seafood, another signature is Taruhachi’s famous half chicken, fried in the same style since the restaurant opened. The menu says it is seasoned with a closely guarded red salt. One diner enjoyed the large chicken’s crisp skin and tender interior with beer. Other choices include a thick dashi omelette made with eggs and stock, and a generous tsukune meatball mixed with crunchy cartilage. These dishes lend themselves to sharing while deciding what to order next.
Finish with Chinese noodles. There is a Kyoto-style bowl made with aged soy sauce, chicken stock and back fat, as well as the “Phantom Chinese Noodles”, made with a richly simmered Japanese beef-tail broth, and a smaller mini portion. After a substantial meal of fish and fried dishes, the mini bowl may suit; if noodles are to be the main event, there is also chashu-men topped with sliced pork. Draft beer, sake and shochu are among the drinks. Whether you build the meal around seasonal seafood or make room for the signature chicken and noodles, there is plenty to choose from.
